Discovering Bali's Poultry Paradise: The Allure of Nasi Ayam

TheIndonesia.co - When travellers think of Balinese cuisine, one dish often dominates the spotlight: babi guling, the island’s famous roast pork. Crispy skin, succulent meat, and bold spices—it's undoubtedly iconic. But for those who don’t eat pork, for that matter Bali offers another culinary treasure worth every bite: nasi ayam Bali.

While lesser-known outside of Indonesia, nasi ayam (literally “chicken rice”) is a beloved Balinese dish that captures the soul of the island’s flavours, and, for many, it becomes the highlight of their food journey. It’s not just a meal—it’s an experience, especially when enjoyed in Ubud, where terraced rice fields and lush jungle paths set the stage for culinary discovery.

What is Nasi Ayam Bali?

At first glance, nasi ayam may seem simple. It’s a plate of white rice surrounded by an assortment of chicken-based side dishes. But simplicity, as Balinese cuisine teaches us, is often deceiving.

A typical nasi ayam plate includes:

• Ayam betutu: Chicken marinated with a rich blend of spices and slow-cooked or steamed in banana leaves.
• Lawar ayam: Finely chopped chicken mixed with grated coconut, herbs, and spices.
• Sambal matah: A raw shallot and lemongrass chili relish that adds a fresh and fiery kick.
• Telur pindang: A marbled egg simmered in soy sauce and spices.
• Satay lilit ayam: Minced chicken wrapped around lemongrass sticks, grilled to perfection.
• A handful of crackers or fried peanuts for crunch.

Each bite tells a story of tradition, patience, and balance. Unlike pork-based dishes that tend to be heavier, nasi ayam offers a lighter yet deeply satisfying alternative that is layered with texture and flavour.

Why Poultry Over Pork in Bali?

While pork has long been a part of Balinese celebrations and rituals, nasi ayam is a daily staple—often eaten for breakfast or lunch. What makes it especially appealing is its accessibility and adaptability, especially for travellers with dietary restrictions.

Additionally, it reflects another side of Balinese cooking: one rooted in everyday life, not just ceremonies. Where pork dishes are typically reserved for big feasts or special occasions, nasi ayam is the people’s food—nourishing, humble, and endlessly customizable.

And as for beef? You’ll notice it's largely absent from Balinese menus, and for good reason. The cow is a sacred animal in Balinese Hinduism, and consuming beef is considered taboo by many locals. This makes poultry and seafood the go-to proteins for everyday meals.

A Taste of Heaven in Ubud: Nasi Ayam Kedewatan

If you're going to try nasi ayam in Bali, you might as well head straight to one of its most famous champions: Nasi Ayam Kedewatan Ibu Mangku. Located in the heart of Kedewatan, a quiet village just outside Ubud, this warung (local eatery) has earned legendary status over the decades.

Founded by Ibu Mangku in the 1960s, this humble establishment serves just one main dish—nasi ayam—with slight variations depending on your spice tolerance. The experience is refreshingly no-frills: sit down, order “nasi ayam,” and wait as the kitchen prepares a plate that many locals and foodies call the best chicken rice in Bali.

You can eat under a traditional bale (pavilion), surrounded by peaceful Balinese architecture, and feel the breeze coming in from nearby rice paddies. The experience goes beyond food—it’s about soaking in the countryside calm of Ubud, where time seems to slow down just enough for you to savor each bite.

Beyond Kedewatan: Where Else to Try Nasi Ayam

While Kedewatan is iconic, you’ll find many variations of nasi ayam throughout Ubud and beyond. A few notable places include:

• Warung Nasi Ayam Bu Oki in Jimbaran – Spicier than most, and always busy.
• Warung Nasi Ayam Ibu Made in Denpasar – A local favorite with generous portions.
• Nasi Ayam Bu Mangku Renon – A branch of the Kedewatan original, closer to the city.

Each place has its twist—some use more coconut, others adjust the sambal heat—but the core remains the same: a soulful plate of chicken and rice that leaves you full, happy, and a little curious how something so simple can be so complex.

Tips for Non-Pork Eaters in Bali

If you’re avoiding pork, you’re in good hands in Bali, especially if you stick to these tips:

1. Seek Out “Ayam” or “Ikan” Dishes

“Ayam” means chicken.

“Ikan” means fish.

Warungs often have nasi campur ayam (mixed rice with chicken) or nasi campur ikan.

2. Communicate Your Restrictions Clearly

Learn a few useful phrases:

“Saya tidak makan babi.” – I don’t eat pork.

“Saya makan ayam dan ikan.” – I eat chicken and fish.

Locals appreciate the effort and are generally happy to accommodate.

3. Ask for “Nasi Ayam” at Local Warungs

Many warungs offer customized rice plates. If unsure, just ask for nasi ayam—it’s a safe and delicious bet.

4. Watch Out for Hidden Ingredients

Some dishes may use broth or sauces made with pork, even if the visible protein is chicken or tofu. When in doubt, ask.

A Poultry Pilgrimage Worth Taking

In Bali, every meal is a reflection of the island’s spirit—warm, vibrant, and deeply rooted in tradition. And while babi guling may be the poster child of Balinese feasts, nasi ayam is the quiet star that shines brighter with every bite.

It’s the dish that locals eat when they want comfort, tourists remember long after the trip ends, and chefs reimagine in creative ways across the island.

So, the next time you find yourself in Ubud, take a walk through the rice fields, breathe in the incense-filled air, and make your way to a local warung. Order a plate of nasi ayam, feel the heat of the sambal, and know that you’ve just discovered Bali’s best-kept poultry secret.

Because in Bali, paradise is not just a place—it’s a plate.