ROOTS of Ubud: Walter Spies, Art, and Bali's Cultural Awakening

TheIndonesia.co - In the heart of Bali, surrounded by rice fields and misty jungle, an extraordinary art exhibition is taking place. Titled “ROOTS,” this showcase at the ARMA Museum in Ubud marks 100 years since the arrival of a man who changed the course of Balinese art and culture forever—Walter Spies.

More than just a tribute, the exhibition is a deep, layered reflection on the island’s transformation over the past century. Curated by artist and filmmaker Michael Schindhelm, and running until June 14th, 2025, ROOTS is a sensory journey through Bali’s identity—from paradise island to a global tourist hotspot.

According to Antara News Agency, inside the exhibition, visitors encounter the provocative visual works of Balinese artists Made Bayak and Gus Dark. Their pieces wrestle with questions of environmental degradation, cultural dilution, and the effects of mass tourism. Alongside their work is a fictional documentary by Schindhelm that tells a powerful story: how the dream of Bali, once promoted by art, has now become a complex reality.

ROOTS isn’t just a collection of art—it’s a conversation. It asks, what does it mean to preserve beauty in the face of change? And how do we honor cultural roots while facing the challenges of the present?

To widen its reach, the film featured in ROOTS is also being screened across various community centers and universities in Bali, creating dialogue among locals, artists, students, and visitors alike.

The exhibition’s opening was filled with symbolism. Traditional Balinese performances such as the Kecak dance were accompanied by a special masked dance piece titled Tuan Tepis, created by the renowned Wayan Dibia. The dance was a creative portrayal of Walter Spies himself—curious, observant, and deeply connected to the spirit of the island.

To understand ROOTS, one must first understand the man at its center. Walter Spies was not a typical tourist or expat. Born in Moscow in 1895 to German parents, Spies was a gifted painter, composer, and cultural enthusiast. By the time he arrived in the Dutch East Indies (present-day Indonesia) in the early 1920s, he had already lived a colorful life across Europe.

In 1927, after some time in Java, Spies moved to Ubud, a then-remote village in central Bali. What he found there—layered spirituality, exquisite rituals, and breathtaking landscapes—ignited his soul. He didn’t come to simply observe; he engaged deeply with the people, culture, and land.

Spies’ influence in Bali was profound. He co-founded the Pita Maha artists’ collective in the 1930s, working with local painters, sculptors, and dancers to preserve and evolve their traditions. He encouraged them to maintain their roots while experimenting with new ideas and techniques, helping shape what we now call modern Balinese art.

His home in Ubud became a magnet for creatives from around the world. Writers, anthropologists, filmmakers, and musicians visited Spies, and through his network and storytelling, Bali’s image as a mystical and artistic paradise began to spread across Europe and beyond.

One of his most famous visitors, the Mexican artist Miguel Covarrubias, credited Spies with revealing the soul of Bali to the world. Others followed—actors like Charlie Chaplin, artist Noël Coward, and numerous Western scholars who were enchanted by what Spies showed them.

By hosting and guiding these figures, Spies effectively turned Ubud into a global crossroads of art and culture, a role the town still plays today.

Unfortunately, Spies’ life ended in tragedy. When World War II broke out, the Dutch colonial authorities, suspicious of all Germans, arrested Spies as an enemy alien. In 1942, he was being deported to Ceylon (Sri Lanka) when the ship carrying him and hundreds of others was bombed by Japanese aircraft. He died at sea.

Though his life was cut short, the seeds Spies planted in Ubud had already taken root. The spirit of collaboration, curiosity, and cultural fusion that he fostered continues to influence generations of Balinese and international artists.

The ROOTS exhibition not only celebrates this legacy—it also challenges us to consider what happens when the dream of paradise becomes a global commodity.

Ubud Today: A Place Where Roots Still Run Deep

Thanks in part to Walter Spies, Ubud evolved from a quiet village into a renowned center of art, spirituality, and wellness. Yet it has managed, for the most part, to retain its authenticity.

Walking through Ubud today, you’ll still find ceremonial offerings on every doorstep, gamelan music echoing through temple halls, and artists at work in open-air studios. You’ll also find yoga retreats, trendy cafés, and digital nomads tapping away on laptops—signs of a changing, globalized Bali.

But Ubud’s soul, if you look closely, is still rooted in its traditions. That’s the paradox ROOTS explores—and the reason why Spies’ story still matters.

Getting to Ubud: A Modern Pilgrimage

Ubud may feel like a secluded sanctuary, but getting there is relatively easy whether you’re traveling from within Indonesia or arriving from overseas.

From Abroad

Fly to Bali (Ngurah Rai International Airport – Denpasar):
Denpasar is Bali’s main international airport, located about 36 kilometers from Ubud. Major airlines operate direct flights from cities like Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Tokyo, Dubai, Doha, and Amsterdam. From the airport, you can reach Ubud in about 1.5 to 2 hours.

Transport Options:

• Private transfer or taxi: Convenient and comfortable, with prices ranging from IDR 350,000 to 450,000.
• Grab/Gojek: Ride-hailing apps offer cheaper fares but may require you to exit the airport zone to book.
• Shuttle bus: Companies like Perama Tours run daily services to Ubud for around IDR 100,000.

From Within Indonesia

Fly from Jakarta, Surabaya, or Yogyakarta to Denpasar:
Domestic flights are frequent and affordable. From there, follow the same transfer options.

Overland Journey:

If you're on an adventurous route, you can travel overland from Java via ferry to Gilimanuk in Bali, then drive to Ubud. This scenic route lets you see more of the countryside and coastal villages.

Once You Arrive: Things to Experience in Ubud

Here are a few must-dos while soaking up Ubud’s cultural magic:

• Visit the ARMA Museum: The home of the ROOTS exhibition and a permanent collection of both classical and contemporary Balinese art.
• Campuhan Ridge Walk: A peaceful hiking trail offering sweeping views of lush hills and valleys.
• Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary: A mystical jungle temple complex inhabited by playful macaques.
• Traditional Dance Performances: Catch a Legong or Barong show at the Ubud Palace or one of the local temples.
• Take a Workshop: Learn traditional crafts, Balinese cooking, or even try your hand at painting.
• Enjoy the Cafés and Warungs: From organic vegan meals to spicy satay, Ubud’s food scene caters to every palate.

In the end, ROOTS is more than an art show. It’s an invitation—to remember, to question, and to dream.

Walter Spies helped the world see the beauty of Bali. Today, a hundred years later, we’re asked to see it again—but with more awareness. Bali, like any paradise, is not immune to the forces of change. Its landscapes, customs, and communities are all at a crossroads.

If we truly want to honour Spies’ legacy, perhaps it begins not with taking more photos, but with taking more care. Care for the culture, the environment, and the people who call this magical island home.