Ninjau Haji: A Joyful Farewell Tradition in Balis Jembrana

TheIndonesia.co - Ninjau Haji, or the tradition of accompanying pilgrims before their Hajj departure, has been cherished across generations in Jembrana, Bali. So deeply rooted is this cultural practice that locals often regard it as their "third Eid," a day of significance marked by both reverence and joy.

Musadat Johar, a cultural figure from Kampung Loloan, fondly recalls his childhood excitement for ninjau haji. For children, it wasn’t just about bidding farewell—it meant a rare day of leisure and family outings.

“In my childhood, the furthest we went was Gilimanuk. The journey felt so long back then, but it was always worth it,” said the 60-year-old man, according to Antara News Agency.

The phrase ninjau haji comes from the local Malay dialect, spoken widely among the Muslim community in Jembrana—descendants of Bugis settlers who founded the first Muslim villages here centuries ago.

 

Despite its literal meaning—escorting Hajj pilgrims—most people don’t actually join the formal departure ceremonies held in Negara, Jembrana’s capital. While pilgrims gather at their village mosques before heading to Surabaya, the rest of the community sets off on their own journey—to relax, picnic, and celebrate.

Travelling mostly by motorcycle, locals fan out across Jembrana and even neighboring regions like Buleleng and Banyuwangi, visiting beaches like Banyuwedang or parks in Gilimanuk. For the youth, crossing over to Java adds a touch of adventure.

Historically, ninjau haji was a somber farewell. When pilgrims departed by sea from a place called Tanjung Tangis—"Cape of Tears"—the fear of storms and uncertainty of return led to tearful goodbyes. Back then, a Hajj journey could last over a year, with pilgrims often staying to study in Mecca.

Today, with air travel and modern convenience, the emotional tone has shifted. There are still tears, but they’re often accompanied by hope and celebration.

On ninjau haji day, villages quiet down as families head out for picnics, usually bringing along homemade meals or ingredients to cook together at their destination. Ayu, a resident of Pengambengan, shared, “Even with tight finances, we make it a point to go. We bring food—cooked or raw—to enjoy together. That’s what makes it special.”

Some, like Alfina Laila, skip the cooking and bring simple snacks and fruits to share with family in nearby parks.

While many no longer remember the tradition’s origins, for locals like Ayu and Alfina, that doesn’t matter. What’s important is the time spent together, the joy, the shared meals—and the quiet hope that one day, they too will journey to Mecca.