Floating Market of Dreams: Preserving a River Culture at Dawn

TheIndonesia.co - At exactly 5:00 AM local time, while most of the world was still asleep, Sampurna—affectionately called Acil Muna (meaning aunt in the Banjar language)—was already preparing to sell her goods at the Lok Baintan Floating Market.

One by one, she loaded her merchandise into a small, engine-less wooden canoe called a jukung in the Banjar tongue. Her boat brimmed with fresh fruits like lime, passion fruit, sweet bananas, young mangoes, and various snacks such as banana chips and peanut crackers.

After completing her dawn prayers in her modest riverside home, Acil Muna set off, paddling her boat with nothing but her arms and determination. Her house lies about six kilometers from the floating market, nestled along the Martapura River in Lok Baintan Village, Sungai Tabuk District, South Kalimantan.

As the morning sun rose, more and more vendors emerged, their boats dotting the river, eventually numbering over a hundred. These river traders offered a colorful array of goods—from fruits, traditional cakes, and packaged snacks to local specialties like soto Banjar, nasi kuning ikan haruan (yellow rice with snakehead fish), and handcrafted souvenirs such as purun bags—perfect gifts for tourists.

The market draws not only locals from South Kalimantan but also visitors from across Indonesia and even abroad. Tourists are drawn to the unique experience: shopping, dining, and exploring, all atop the river’s surface.

For many, one of the most unforgettable moments is when their boat is surrounded by traders—most of whom are women, affectionately known as acil-acil—cheerfully calling out in rhyme and song to attract buyers.

People often shop not necessarily out of need, but from a desire to support the hardworking vendors. Acil Muna said that on a good day, she could earn up to IDR 500,000. On slower days, even IDR 200,000 is a blessing.

“We sell every day,” she explained, according to Antara News Agency. “but the crowds usually only come on weekends or during big events like the week-long Haul Guru Sekumpul pilgrimage.”

Interestingly, a barter system still thrives among the vendors, with traders often exchanging goods based on mutual agreement.

Despite the challenges, Acil Muna is deeply grateful for her life at the floating market. Her earnings help support her family alongside her husband’s income from farming.

But this is more than just a marketplace. The Lok Baintan Floating Market is a living cultural legacy, dating back to the 18th-century Banjar Sultanate. It stands as a vibrant symbol of South Kalimantan's river culture and deserves to be preserved.

An Authentic River Market

The market typically runs from 6:00 AM to around 9:00 AM, winding down as the heat builds. Vendors are willing to stay longer if tourists are still arriving.

Reaching the market is an adventure in itself. Tourists can journey from Banjarmasin city via the Martapura River in small boats known locally as kelotok. Tour packages are available from various docks like Siring Menara Pandang and Tugu Nol Kilometer. The hour-long river cruise offers glimpses of daily life along the riverbanks and a stunning sunrise.

Alternatively, visitors can take a 9-kilometer land route via Sungai Lulut, the border between Banjarmasin and Banjar Regency.

Muhammad Zavier, a visitor from Surabaya, East Java, described the experience as unforgettable.

“This is the only truly authentic floating market left in Indonesia—maybe even the world,” he said. “Many other places have tried to replicate it, but Lok Baintan is the real deal.”

Zavier did note one concern: the over-eagerness of some vendors. “I hope they can approach customers more politely. Not all tourists come to buy—some just want to enjoy the atmosphere and take photos.”

Still, many visitors understand that each purchase supports the local economy and helps preserve this unique cultural heritage.

A Global Geotourism Treasure

The Lok Baintan Floating Market is now part of the Meratus Geopark, officially recognized as a UNESCO Global Geopark in April 2025.

On June 2nd, South Kalimantan Governor H. Muhidin will travel to Paris to receive the certificate marking this international honor. Meratus is now one of 12 UNESCO-designated geoparks in Indonesia—and the first on the island of Borneo.

Lok Baintan represents the start of the western route of the geopark’s tourism circuit, themed "The Charm of Banjar River Life." This 85-kilometer route includes nine cultural and geological sites, showcasing the Martapura River—a tributary of the Barito River formed by the uplift of the Meratus Mountains.

Muhamad Muslim, head of South Kalimantan’s Communication and Information Agency, urged collective efforts to preserve the floating market. He emphasized that its conservation aligns with UNESCO’s vision of sustainable development: combining conservation, education, and local economic growth.

The government is also responsible for educating vendors, many of whom now serve primarily tourists. Everyone should feel welcomed and safe while visiting the market.

With ongoing efforts, the floating market—along with its traditional boats, bartering culture, and warm acil-acil—can remain a cherished part of Kalimantan’s living heritage for generations to come.