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Beyond the Crowds: Why Northern Bali Deserve a Spot on Your Travel List

RR Ukirsari Manggalani
Lovina Beach [Shutterstock]
Lovina Beach [Shutterstock]

TheIndonesia.co - When people dream of Bali, their minds often drift to the sun-drenched beaches of Kuta, the rice terraces of Ubud, or the glamorous surf of Canggu. The southern and central regions of the island have become poster children for the Bali experience, drawing millions of visitors each year. But there’s a quieter, less commercialized Bali that exists just a few hours’ drive from Denpasar—a region of black sand beaches, misty mountains, and cultural depth. Welcome to Northern Bali, home to the underrated towns of Lovina, Kalibukbuk, and Buleleng.

The Allure of the Unknown

Despite Bali’s status as one of the world’s most popular destinations, its northern reaches remain off the radar for most tourists. The area is less developed, has fewer international hotel chains, and offers a noticeably slower pace. These differences, however, are exactly what make the north so compelling for the discerning traveler.

Lovina and its nearby villages like Kalibukbuk lie along the coast of Buleleng Regency. This region isn’t without its own tourist infrastructure—there are guesthouses, dive shops, yoga studios, and beach bars—but the vibe is refreshingly low-key. You’re more likely to find local warungs (family-run restaurants) than smoothie bowls with edible flowers. In essence, Northern Bali offers what many claim to seek: an “authentic” experience, away from the filtered version seen on social media.

The new generation's farming plots at Buleleng, Singaraja [Suara.com]
The new generation's farming plots at Buleleng, Singaraja [Suara.com]

Why Isn’t Everyone Going North?

There are a few key reasons why the northern region remains under-visited. First, geography plays a major role. Most international flights land in the south at Ngurah Rai International Airport, and the majority of Bali’s tourism infrastructure is centered there. To reach Lovina or Kalibukbuk requires a 2.5 to 3.5-hour drive through the island’s central mountains. For some, the winding roads and time commitment are deterrents, especially when sun and surf await just 15 minutes from the airport.

Second, the north lacks the "scene" that many tourists—especially younger ones—are looking for. There’s no nightlife that rivals Seminyak’s beach clubs, no celebrity-chef restaurants, and no infinity pools overlooking terraced rice fields curated for Instagram. For travelers in search of comfort, convenience, and crowds, the north may not be immediately appealing.

Lastly, there’s a visibility issue. Southern Bali dominates guidebooks, tour packages, and online travel content. Many travelers simply don’t know what the north has to offer. Yet for those who do make the journey, the rewards are substantial.

Discovering Lovina and Kalibukbuk

Lovina is best known for its black volcanic sand beaches and calm seas, a contrast to the roaring surf in the south. The waters here are ideal for swimming, snorkeling, and early-morning dolphin watching—an experience that has become Lovina’s signature. Local boatmen offer sunrise tours to see pods of spinner dolphins dancing on the waves, often set against the silhouette of Mount Batur.

The town of Kalibukbuk, which lies at the heart of Lovina, has a laid-back charm. There’s a gentle blend of Balinese and colonial architecture, and the streets are dotted with cozy cafés, art galleries, and humble temples. At night, you’ll find relaxed beach bars with acoustic music and fire-dancing performances—entertainment on a human scale.

Further inland, the Singaraja region (capital of Buleleng Regency) offers a historical counterpoint to the south’s beach culture. Once the capital of Bali during Dutch colonial rule, Singaraja retains a sense of faded grandeur. You’ll find old Dutch-style buildings, libraries, and archives, along with the Gedong Kirtya Museum, home to traditional lontar manuscripts.

A Different Kind of Nature

Northern Bali’s natural beauty is both subtler and wilder than the manicured landscapes of Ubud or Nusa Dua. The region is a gateway to lush waterfalls like Gitgit, Sekumpul, and Aling-Aling—some of the most stunning on the island, often surrounded by forest trails and rarely crowded. These are places where you can actually hear the sound of water hitting rock, unmasked by selfie drones and background music.

Dolphins watch in early morning at Lovina Beach, Buleleng, Bali (tiket.com]
Dolphins watch in early morning at Lovina Beach, Buleleng, Bali (tiket.com]

The nearby Banjar Hot Springs, set amid tropical gardens, offer another kind of immersion. Locals and visitors alike soak in the sulfur-rich waters flowing from dragon-headed fountains, a ritual that has continued for generations.

For the adventurous, the northern coast also provides diving opportunities around Menjangan Island, part of Bali Barat National Park. Its coral reefs are among the healthiest in the region, and sightings of reef sharks, sea turtles, and vibrant marine life are common.

A Cultural Tapestry

Northern Bali also boasts a rich and distinct cultural life. Here, Balinese Hinduism is practiced with deep reverence and local variation. Smaller, community temples are active and central to daily life, and it’s not uncommon to stumble upon a quiet village ceremony or cremation procession—somber, sacred, and unplanned.

The area is also known for its connection to Bali Aga, the island’s original inhabitants who maintain distinct traditions. Though most Bali Aga villages are found in the east (like Trunyan and Tenganan), northern communities retain similar threads of pre-Hindu Balinese culture. Art, dance, and storytelling are practiced not for performance, but for preservation.

The new generation's farming plots at Buleleng, Singaraja [Suara.com]
The new generation's farming plots at Buleleng, Singaraja [Suara.com]

Is It Worth Exploring?

Absolutely. For travelers open to a different pace and a less curated experience, Northern Bali offers depth over gloss, space over spectacle. It’s the kind of place that invites lingering: a longer conversation with a warung owner, a quiet walk through an unmarked trail, a sunset uninterrupted by the need to capture it perfectly.

There’s also a sustainability aspect to consider. By venturing beyond Bali’s over-visited south, travelers help distribute the economic benefits of tourism more equitably. Supporting small guesthouses, family-run eateries, and local guides in the north contributes directly to communities that often see little of Bali’s booming travel revenue.

Planning Your Visit

The best way to reach Lovina and its surrounds is by private car or driver, which offers flexibility to stop at scenic spots along the way like the twin lakes of Buyan and Tamblingan or the Ulun Danu Beratan temple. Accommodations range from simple beach bungalows to boutique resorts, and the cost of living is generally lower than in the south.

The gateway to Buleleng Beach, Singaraja [Suara.com]
The gateway to Buleleng Beach, Singaraja [Suara.com]

Most travelers spend 2–4 nights in the region, though a week would allow for deeper exploration into the highlands, waterfalls, and even further west toward the untouched coasts of Pemuteran.

Penimbangan Beach, Buleleng, Bali [direktoripariwisata.id]
Penimbangan Beach, Buleleng, Bali [direktoripariwisata.id]

Final Thoughts

Northern Bali is not for everyone, and that’s precisely its strength. In a world where many destinations feel like they’ve been algorithmically optimized for tourism, places like Lovina, Kalibukbuk, and Buleleng offer something increasingly rare: a chance to slow down, look around, and remember why we travel in the first place.

Tag # bali # northern # kalibukbuk # buleleng # lovina # beach # dolphin

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