Old Menteng Walk: Tracing Jakarta's History Through Streets and Stories

TheIndonesia.co - Taking a walking tour might seem like a modest activity, but for someone new in Jakarta, it becomes a window into the city’s layered history and dynamic character. It serves as a gentle yet revealing introduction to the people, culture, and influences that have shaped Indonesia’s capital over centuries.

On a bright weekend morning, I joined a walking tour arranged by ibis Jakarta Raden Saleh in collaboration with Time Gap Indonesia. Though I’ve explored cities on foot in other countries — and across my homeland — this was my first time participating as part of a journalistic challenge. I was teamed up with seven fellow journalists, competing with five other groups to produce creative coverage and content for social media.

The prize? Attractive giveaways: hotel stays, tablets, and cute Time Gap's merchandise already on display during the morning briefing. It was shaping up to be a unique blend of tourism and teamwork.

 

As its name suggests, the ibis Jakarta Raden Saleh hotel sits in an area rich with history, named after Raden Saleh Sjarif Boestaman — Indonesia’s pioneering modern painter. Born in 1811, Raden Saleh spent much of his adult life in Europe, mainly in the Netherlands and Germany, where he was recognized for his dramatic, romantic-style artworks and noble demeanor.

Returning to Java in the 1850s, he purchased a vast 10-hectare estate in what is now Cikini. His land housed a European-style mansion, a small zoo, a gallery, and eventually institutions like a hospital and places of worship. While his original home is currently under renovation, its historical significance remains vital to understanding Jakarta’s colonial and cultural transitions.

 

Our walking tour began with a visit to the Raden Saleh House. Although we couldn’t enter due to the ongoing restoration, our guide shared its legacy — a fusion of Javanese roots and European influence. The mansion once hosted art salons and scientific gatherings, offering a glimpse into the intellectual climate of 19th-century Batavia (now Jakarta).

 

Next, we stopped at Masjid Jami Al-Ma’mur Cikini, one of Jakarta’s oldest mosques, established in 1860. Though modest in size, it bears witness to Jakarta’s multicultural roots — nestled amid a neighbourhood that once harmoniously housed Muslims, Christians, and Chinese-Indonesians. Its architecture reflects Dutch-Indies style with locally inspired adaptations, showing how faith and heritage have long coexisted in the capital.

 

Our journey continued through Taman Ismail Marzuki (TIM), the city’s leading arts and cultural centre. Established in 1968, TIM is named after the celebrated Indonesian composer Ismail Marzuki. It hosts a planetarium, art galleries, theaters, and libraries, making it a living tribute to Jakarta’s creative soul. For anyone interested in contemporary Indonesian arts, TIM is a must-visit.

We then passed by the Habib Cikini Complex, dedicated to Abdurrahman bin Abdullah Al Habsyi — a revered religious scholar who played a role in the spiritual development of Cikini and its surroundings. The area still attracts visitors who come for blessings and cultural learning.

 

On the way, we saw the former site of Tan Ek Tjoan, the legendary Chinese-Indonesian bakery known for its fragrant, golden brown breads and sweet milk loaves. Founded in the early 20th century, it started in Cikini before moving its production to Bogor. While the factory is no longer here, Tan Ek Tjoan’s legacy endures through vendors who still sell the bread around Jakarta, Bogor, and Tangerang — many of them on bicycles or pushcarts, just like in the old days.

 

As midday heat settled in, our group took a refreshing break — having hotel's made sandwiches, and sipping coconut water from a street vendor, then enjoying handmade Tjanang ice cream, another heritage name in Jakarta’s culinary map. My personal favorite? Rum and raisin — sweet, nostalgic, and perfectly chilled for Jakarta’s warm climate.

 

Aside from the sights, the tour stood out for its interactivity. Our guide from Time Gap Indonesia led engaging group games: we searched for hidden messages, solved quizzes on the fly, and deciphered clues in a scavenger hunt-style challenge that tested our coordination and memory. It wasn’t just a walk — it was a puzzle woven through time.

After our three-hour exploration, we returned to ibis Jakarta Raden Saleh where a well-deserved traditional Indonesian lunch awaited. The buffet featured local classics: soto ayam, gado-gado, rendang, and fresh sambal. To top it all off, our team won second place in the walking tour games — a sweet ending to a hot and history-rich morning.

Insight: Why Menteng and Cikini Matter

The Menteng and Cikini areas are more than neighbourhoods — they are historical cross-sections of Jakarta's transformation. Developed in the early 20th century by Dutch colonial planners, Menteng was the first garden city in the Indies, designed with broad boulevards and parks to house Dutch officials and elite locals.

 

Cikini, in contrast, grew organically and became home to many artists, scholars, and reformers. While Menteng represents planned modernity, Cikini reflects organic cultural blending — a mix of Betawi, Arab, Chinese, and European influences.

Today, both districts retain their charm. Colonial-era villas, leafy streets, and hidden alleys are interspersed with vibrant markets, old cemeteries, and art venues. Walking through them is like peeling back layers of history — from the era of the Dutch East Indies to modern Indonesian nationalism.

A walking tour like this reminds you that Jakarta isn't just a bustling metropolis. Beneath the surface traffic and skyscrapers lie pockets of time — preserved in architecture, religion, cuisine, and community. And it’s through walking, not just watching, that you truly feel a city’s heartbeat.

So next time you find yourself in Jakarta, take a detour into Old Menteng. Let its old roads, hidden stories, and flavors tell you the tale of a city constantly in motion — yet proudly rooted in its past.